SU students repurpose history with luxury vintage pop-up - The Daily Orange |
| SU students repurpose history with luxury vintage pop-up - The Daily Orange Posted: 24 Sep 2019 11:29 PM PDT  Faded Levi's, classic rock-and-roll apparel and strawberry-patterned pants, will all be for the taking of fashion fiends in a Syracuse University student's apartment. The two-day event, a fall collection hosted by "What Goes Around Comes Around" will be held on Oct. 9 and 11 at 1205 Harrison St. The event is being organized by two SU seniors, Jakob Kaplan and Jordan Zwang. WGACA is a vintage retail store that was founded in 1993 by SU alumni Gerard Maione and Seth Weisser. The store has since expanded to six locations including Soho, Miami and Beverly Hills. The current students' involvement with WGACA traces back about 30 years ago when Kaplan's father befriended Gerard Maione, one of the company's founders, during their time at SU. The two were brothers of the Delta Upsilon fraternity in Syracuse and have maintained that relationship since. Kaplan said Maione is like an uncle to him and they often see one another at family gatherings. During one family event, Kaplan asked Maione about becoming part of his business. When the vintage curator agreed, both Zwang and Kaplan quickly worked to a pitch a concept for Maione. "For the next few days, we had been working on a business plan," said Zwang. "He told us to send him something legitimate, something that we wanted to do. … We worked on that for the next few days, sent it to him, and within the next 48 hours, he told us to come to the warehouse." During the curation process, Zwang and Kaplan hand selected each piece at the WGACA warehouse based in New Jersey. Zwang said the two kept students' budgets in mind. They chose pieces that would attract students and avoid selling solely brands like Louis Vuitton that could be too expensive for some students. One go-to item they gravitated toward was vintage Levi's from the '60s, Zwang said. "We just dove into the racks and hand selected the pieces that we thought would be best for Syracuse students to purchase," Zwang said. The pair said they would both describe their style as "ever–changing" and added they wear what no one else is wearing. Kaplan's favorite designers include Virgil Abloh and Ricardo Tisci. Zwang said he admired designers like Kim Jones, who worked on the Louis Vuitton and Supreme clothing collection, among others — particularly smaller-name designers like Daf Orlovsky. Along with working with other brands and clothing, the two are also working toward creating their own clothing brand, Code of Silence — a name based off TV show "The Sopranos." The idea was born when the two met during their time abroad in London and were influenced by European style. But it was in Amsterdam when the two realized they wanted their brand to be eco-conscious. After finding out that it takes 270 gallons to create one T-shirt, Kaplan said, the two made sure to find clothing they can upcycle along with curating their own vintage clothing. The brand will also be featured at the event. "We upcycle, meaning that you just repurpose vintage clothing. Rather than get rid of it, we just keep using it," Zwang said. "The best vintage pieces we found were in Amsterdam." The duo plan on dividing the store by sections, including a sport section featuring '90s Celtics wear and a high fashion section that includes designers such as Louis Vuitton, Takashi Murakami and Comme des Garçon. Some clothing that will be featured at the event has been worn or sold before, Kaplan said. The event will also include two DJs, who are friends of the two shop-runners. DJ Noah Rosenberg said seeing the passion that both Kaplan and Zwang share for the project has inspired him. Kaplan said the two want the event to have a party vibe rather than being labeled as a pop-up shop, with Zwang adding what they ultimately want to do is create a space for the fashion community. "We're bringing together people who like music, and we're trying to build this community," Zwang said, "because there's never really been anything like this at Syracuse since we've been here." Published on September 25, 2019 at 2:29 am  |
| Why Vintage Designer Clothes Are the Secret to Modern Fashion Trends - GQ Posted: 05 Sep 2019 12:00 AM PDT Procell is fluent in Polo Jeans, Tommy Jeans, DKNY, "and all of these other brands that had maybe three to four different diffusion lines," in particular "low-tier urban mall store brands." Because of the influence of music and street fashion that went into these collections, these designs "were really, really, incredibly, very, very progressive." I asked if he was talking about major fashion brands—in the winter of 2015, for example, I bought at Procell's store a Fendi-logo print maxi acrylic knit dress with a matching beanie, and thought in passing how cool it would be if Fendi started making pieces like that. About two years later, they did. "I'm talking about LVMH brands," Procell says, referring to the French conglomerate that owns brands including Louis Vuitton, Dior, Celine, Fendi, and Marc Jacobs. He couldn't get more specific about his clients, but, "What I can say with the utmost confidence is that we've worked with everybody we ever thought we would want to have worked with, or we thought would be the apex, or the ultimate goal."   In other words, brands are integrating into their current offerings pieces they may have looked down on only a decade or so ago, having seen them celebrated at Procell's store or on Instagram. "A lot of these brands are kind of going through their golden era, literally because they are crowdsourcing Instagram," he says. Procell, of course, has a finely tuned eye, an instinct for what's really cool versus merely hyped, and an intuitive sense for street fashion that an Instagram account can't compete with, but he laughs a little and says, "In a way, I wish Instagram never fucking was invented." He continues, "What's happening is there's all these pieces that could be incredible reference tools that fall to the wrong dealer, and because of the hype, maybe [they] get bought by the wrong customer, and maybe are never seen again." He and his team—which includes his partner, Jessica Gonsalves, whom he refers to as his Robert Duffy, referencing Marc Jacobs's longtime former CEO—have to be calculated about their own Instagram as a result, because "we understand that that has a crazy effect on the market." New York Fashion Week suffers from the ongoing insecurity that all the energy is in Paris. But this new era of vintage sales and consulting means that New York is actually steering much of the direction of the fashion world, even if Europe remains the mecca from which runway trends apparently emanate. Huge fashion companies are looking to his archive and James Veloria's to figure out what to do next. Both prepare their stores carefully for fashion weeks, when European press, editors, and other fashion industry people will visit the store to shop and get ideas. What hits the runway is "supposed to be progressive, because it's the first introduction into the market," Procell says. But "[New York streets] made it valid for the runway, which later, will make it valid for the mass market." Procell and his team would "gladly" say they see pieces on the runway for which their archive "might have been the first introduction of some of these styles or silhouettes." He names the diffusion lines created by Girbaud in Italy in the early 2000s, as well as Calvin Klein's CK Jeans diffusions, and Marc Ecko's obscure diffusion line Ecko Function, as examples of what might be bubbling up next. (He added, "There are other things that are next level, but in a way, that's almost, at this point, relevant." Chilling!) Like Giordano and Weber, Procell is also skilled at recontextualizing a brand, doing the kind of studious work that an advertising campaign or big publicity push could only hope to achieve. Procell is staging a pop-up of vintage selects by Marc Jacobs that opens Thursday, "celebrating some of his really, really interesting archival moments from our lens." (Coincidentally, Jacobs had to use vintage dealers and Ebay to track down his original Perry Ellis grunge collection when he re-released the collection last fall.) He adds, "We want to show that this guy is so multidimensional and versatile. Basically, what you are wearing right now or what you see at a party, Marc has done that too."  |
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